My happily ever after at Lolo Dad’s Café
All the talk about Lolo Dad’s unplanned beginnings
got me excited. Like a lady out on her
first date, I didn’t know what to
expect. What sumptuous offerings would greet me from
Chef Ariel’s kitchen?
Finally, it was time for another round of dessert. I have higher standards for dessert than for any part of the meal. The last thing I put in my mouth has to be perfect, so that I could go home contented. I soon found out that my perfect ending was waiting in Lolo Dad’s all along. The Dark chocolate and Almond layered cake with Quenelle of White chocolate mousseline and Vanilla Almond Ice Cream was delectable. Take a bite, and the cake crumbles and melts in your mouth at the same time. I would go back to Lolo Dad’s just for that.
Words by Abby Lim
Photographed by Greg Mayo (his actual photos are in the mag itself. these amateur photos are mine)
Art direction: Chelsea
Lim
Special thanks to Appetite editors Nina Daza-Puyat and Viel Luis who helped me on this feature
It is with reckless abandon that I fall
in love at first bite. I crave and rave,
only to find out that it was mere
culinary infatuation. Then I am ready to move on to the next target
delicacy. I thought it impossible to fall
absolutely and forever in love with a dish outside of home. Until I met Lolo Dad’s Café.
Unexpected love affair
If I didn’t know that it was one of Manila’s
best restaurants, I would probably think of Lolo Dad’s Café as another house on
the streets of Malate. And indeed, from 1941 until early 2000, it
actually was. General Manager Ding
Ayuyao says that the restaurant is a tribute to their deceased father Conrado
Ayuyao who they called Lolo Dad. It also used to be the ancentral home of the
Ayuyao family. Look around and you’ll
easily spot vestiges of the restaurant’s Spanish roots in the hardwood floors
and beautifully detailed wooden furniture.
 |
| Open kitchen at Lolo Dad's |
You
might think that this crossing over from historical to gastronomical is a natural
offshoot of the family’s common love for meticulously-prepared food. Nothing can be further from the truth. In
actuality, what has been recently dubbed as Manila’s Most Romantic Restaurant
was initially planned to be a modest take-out food stall. I was incredulous upon learning this, but
it’s the humble truth. The take-out
place was supposed to be situated at the house’s lanai, but the universe had bigger
plans for the Ayuyaos. While the family
was thinking about their small venture, it
just so happened that their neighbor had to dispose of a large island stove. Not wanting the stove to go to waste, the
family decided to turn their food fling into a fullblown passion for fine
dining. The rest is gastronimical
history. Today, Lolo Dad’s Cafe seats fifty people and is run by Ding and four award-winning
chefs. This roster includes multi-awarded Chef Ariel Manuel and his wife Carminia
Ayuyao Manuel who is also a pastry chef.
 |
| Smile! Appetite EIC Ms. Nina Daza-Puyat and Graphic Designer Chelsea Lim take a break from watching the going-ons in the kitchen |
The accidental chef
I
believe that the food is only as good as the hands behind them. I was a bit nervous talking to such a
topnotch Chef highly esteemed by his peers.
It was pretty amazing to find out that Chef Ariel was very accomodating
and easy to talk to. He says that he started out waiting on tables and didn’t receive any formal training in cooking. It was upon seeing the plated dishes at the
Hyatt Hotel that the then-architecture student’s creative instincts for food
first kicked in. Without any air of
arrogance, the Chef says matter-of-factly, “I felt that I could do that
better”. And indeed he did and still
does. The accidental chef has now
garnered international awards in the culinary world, but remains surprisingly humble. When asked what his favorite food is, he
sheepishly tells us, “Corned beef”.
 |
| Chef Ariel was awesome. I just had to have a picture with him... |
 |
| ...and so did Assistant Editor Viel |
My Rendezvous with Lolo Dad's
February
14 is a special day for Lolo Dad’s Café since it was on the same day in 2000
that the restaurant first opened its doors to the public. The choice of Valentine’s Day as the opening
day didn’t hold any significance other than it being a good day to open a
restaurant. The romantic in me was imagining the opening date to be connected
to Chef Ariel and his wife’s grand love
story; it was more of a perfectly arranged marriage though. Looking at
the grandiose Valentine’s menu, I couldn’t help but think that Lolo Dad’s
and Valentine’s went so well, the heavens must have conspired to put them
together. Faithful to its romantic
reputation, Chef Ariel prepared a 6-course tasting menu (P2600/person) that’s
sure to romance lovers on Valentine’s Day.
 |
| Photographer peek-a-boo: Chef Ariel is busy in the kitchen |
The Chef says that he likes to add a distinguishing
factor in his dishes, something that would set them apart from other world
flavors. One would notice that this
special set had an Asian or Filipino twist in them, albeit their European
roots. Take for example the Hoisin
glazed Rast French Quail breast, which was served with Adobo of Crispy Leg and
the Seared Foie gras on Duck fat fried Potato rosti. Or the big serving of Roast Rack of Lamb and
Kaldereta of Wagyu short rib in crepinet served with Parmesan Cheese Risotto,
Shallot confit and Asparagus. You may
also be familiar with the Chef’s Vanilla Almond Ice Cream creation. The dessert was all dressed up with Thai Basil,
Strawberry Feulitté and Spiced White Chocolate Burst.
 |
| French Quail breast with Adobo of Crispy leg |
I particularly liked the cool Citrus sorbet
that prepared my tastebuds for Chef Ariel’s other creations. To balance the meaty viands, there were two
seafood dishes: the Gingered Raw Salmon; Tuna and Grouper with Moluga Caviar,
Baby Eels and Capellin Sardine Terrine; Cucumber and Tomato Gazpacho jelly with
Cilantro vinaigrette; and the Lobster and Sweetcorn Chawan Mushi.
 |
| Chawan Mushi is an egg custard dish from Japan |
 |
| Okay say this as fast as you can: Gingered Raw Salmon; Tuna and Grouper with Moluga Caviar, Baby Eels and Capellin Sardine Terrine; Cucumber and Tomato Gazpacho Jelly with Cilantro Vinaigrette. |
The Perfect Ending
I thought my date was over, but Chef Ariel
wanted to introduce my palette to their ala carte menu. As Ding emphasizes, Lolo Dad’s Café is a
place to go to for any occasion, romantic or otherwise. Chef Ariel likes to
keep his menu updated for regular goers looking for fresh
eats. For starters, I had the Romaine Caesar salad with Grilled Chorizo, Crisp Pancetta
and Eight Minute Boiled Egg. I particularly delighted in the Pan-fried fillet of Seabass with Blue
crab Potatoes and Smoked Salmon-filled Mushrooms in Oyster cream sauce. The
seabass was tender and the blue crab simply invited you to stay for more.
 |
| Blue Crab Potatoes, Smoked Salmon-filled Mushrooms in Oyster Cream Sauce and Pan-fried Fillet of Seabass |
Finally, it was time for another round of dessert. I have higher standards for dessert than for any part of the meal. The last thing I put in my mouth has to be perfect, so that I could go home contented. I soon found out that my perfect ending was waiting in Lolo Dad’s all along. The Dark chocolate and Almond layered cake with Quenelle of White chocolate mousseline and Vanilla Almond Ice Cream was delectable. Take a bite, and the cake crumbles and melts in your mouth at the same time. I would go back to Lolo Dad’s just for that.
 |
| I fell in love with this: Dark Chocolate and Almond Layered Cake |
Every
girl dreams of a happily ever after. It
was by accident, or better yet, it was by fate that I had mine at Lolo Dad’s
Cafe.
Lolo Dad’s Cafe is located
at 899 Pres. Quirino Ave. Cor. Leon Guinto St., Malate, Manila. For information
and reservations, call 522-2941, 524-2295, 496-6646 or +639228125971 .
 |
| This article was published on Appetite's February 2012 issue. Grab a copy for more romantic escapades! |
Tweet
