Accidentally in Love with Lolo Dad's Cafe

My happily ever after at Lolo Dad’s Café

Words by Abby Lim

Photographed by  Greg Mayo (his actual photos are in the mag itself. these amateur photos are mine)

Art direction: Chelsea Lim

Special thanks to Appetite editors Nina Daza-Puyat and Viel Luis who helped me on this feature

It is with reckless abandon that I fall in love at first bite.  I crave and rave,  only to find out that it was mere culinary infatuation.  Then I am ready to move on to the next target delicacy.  I thought it impossible to fall absolutely and forever in love with a dish outside of home.   Until I met Lolo Dad’s Café.

Unexpected love affair

 If I didn’t know that it was one of Manila’s best restaurants, I would probably think of Lolo Dad’s Café as another house on the streets of Malate.  And indeed, from 1941 until early 2000, it actually was.  General Manager Ding Ayuyao says that the restaurant is a tribute to their deceased father Conrado Ayuyao who they called Lolo Dad. It also used to be the ancentral home of the Ayuyao family.  Look around and you’ll easily spot vestiges of the restaurant’s Spanish roots in the hardwood floors and beautifully detailed wooden furniture. 

Open kitchen at Lolo Dad's

You might think that this crossing over from historical to gastronomical is a natural offshoot of the family’s common love for meticulously-prepared food.  Nothing can be further from the truth. In actuality, what has been recently dubbed as Manila’s Most Romantic Restaurant was initially planned to be a modest take-out food stall.   I was incredulous upon learning this, but it’s the humble truth.  The take-out place was supposed to be situated at the house’s lanai, but the universe had bigger plans for the Ayuyaos.  While the family was thinking about their small  venture, it just so happened that their neighbor had to dispose of a large island stove.  Not wanting the stove to go to waste, the family decided to turn their food fling into a fullblown passion for fine dining.  The rest is gastronimical history. Today, Lolo Dad’s Cafe seats fifty people and is run by Ding and four award-winning chefs. This roster includes multi-awarded Chef Ariel Manuel and his wife Carminia Ayuyao Manuel who is also a pastry chef.   

Smile! Appetite EIC Ms. Nina Daza-Puyat and Graphic Designer Chelsea Lim
take a break from watching the going-ons in the kitchen 

The accidental chef

I believe that the food is only as good as the hands behind them.  I was a bit nervous talking to such a topnotch Chef highly esteemed by his peers.  It was pretty amazing to find out that Chef Ariel was very accomodating and easy to talk to.  He says that he started out waiting on tables and didn’t receive any formal training in cooking.  It was upon seeing the plated dishes at the Hyatt Hotel that the then-architecture student’s creative instincts for food first kicked in.   Without any air of arrogance, the Chef says matter-of-factly, “I felt that I could do that better”.  And indeed he did and still does.  The accidental chef has now garnered international awards in the culinary world, but remains surprisingly humble.  When asked what his favorite food is, he sheepishly tells us, “Corned beef”.

Chef Ariel was awesome. I just had to have a picture with him...

...and so did Assistant Editor Viel

My Rendezvous with Lolo Dad's

                

All the talk about Lolo Dad’s unplanned beginnings got me excited.  Like a lady out on her first date,  I didn’t know what to expect.   What sumptuous offerings would greet me from Chef Ariel’s kitchen?

February 14 is a special day for Lolo Dad’s Café since it was on the same day in 2000 that the restaurant first opened its doors to the public.  The choice of Valentine’s Day as the opening day didn’t hold any significance other than it being a good day to open a restaurant. The romantic in me was imagining the opening date to be connected to Chef Ariel and his wife’s  grand love story; it was more of a perfectly arranged marriage though.  Looking at  the grandiose Valentine’s menu, I couldn’t help but think that Lolo Dad’s and Valentine’s went so well, the heavens must have conspired to put them together.  Faithful to its romantic reputation, Chef Ariel prepared a 6-course tasting menu (P2600/person) that’s sure to romance lovers on Valentine’s Day.

Photographer peek-a-boo: Chef Ariel is busy in the kitchen

 The Chef says that he likes to add a distinguishing factor in his dishes, something that would set them apart from other world flavors.  One would notice that this special set had an Asian or Filipino twist in them, albeit their European roots.  Take for example the Hoisin glazed Rast French Quail breast, which was served with Adobo of Crispy Leg and the Seared Foie gras on Duck fat fried Potato rosti.   Or the big serving of Roast Rack of Lamb and Kaldereta of Wagyu short rib in crepinet served with Parmesan Cheese Risotto, Shallot confit and Asparagus.  You may also be familiar with the Chef’s Vanilla Almond Ice Cream creation.  The dessert was all dressed up with Thai Basil, Strawberry Feulitté and Spiced White Chocolate Burst.

French Quail breast with Adobo of Crispy leg

    I particularly liked the cool Citrus sorbet that prepared my tastebuds for Chef Ariel’s other creations.  To balance the meaty viands, there were two seafood dishes: the Gingered Raw Salmon; Tuna and Grouper with Moluga Caviar, Baby Eels and Capellin Sardine Terrine; Cucumber and Tomato Gazpacho jelly with Cilantro vinaigrette; and the Lobster and Sweetcorn Chawan Mushi.

Chawan Mushi is an egg custard dish from Japan

Okay say this as fast as you can: Gingered Raw Salmon; Tuna and Grouper with Moluga Caviar,
Baby Eels and Capellin Sardine Terrine; Cucumber and Tomato Gazpacho Jelly with Cilantro Vinaigrette.

The Perfect Ending

     I thought my date was over, but Chef Ariel wanted to introduce my palette to their ala carte menu.  As Ding emphasizes, Lolo Dad’s Café is a place to go to for any occasion, romantic or otherwise. Chef Ariel likes to keep his menu updated for regular goers looking for fresh eats.  For starters, I had the Romaine Caesar salad with Grilled Chorizo, Crisp Pancetta and Eight Minute Boiled Egg.  I particularly delighted in the Pan-fried fillet of Seabass with Blue crab Potatoes and Smoked Salmon-filled Mushrooms in Oyster cream sauce. The seabass was tender and the blue crab simply invited you to stay for more.     
                                                                                                       

  Blue Crab Potatoes, Smoked Salmon-filled Mushrooms in Oyster Cream Sauce and  Pan-fried Fillet of Seabass

   
             Finally, it was time for another round of dessert. I have higher standards for dessert than for any part of the meal.  The last thing I put in my mouth has to be perfect, so that I could go home contented.  I soon found out that my perfect ending was waiting in Lolo Dad’s all along. The Dark chocolate and Almond layered cake with  Quenelle of White chocolate mousseline and Vanilla Almond Ice Cream was delectable.  Take a bite, and the cake crumbles and melts in your mouth at the same time. I would go back to Lolo Dad’s just for that.

I fell in love with this: Dark Chocolate and Almond Layered Cake

Every girl dreams of a happily ever after.  It was by accident, or better yet, it was by fate that I had mine at Lolo Dad’s Cafe.         

Lolo Dad’s Cafe is located at 899 Pres. Quirino Ave. Cor. Leon Guinto St., Malate, Manila. For information and reservations, call 522-2941,  524-2295, 496-6646   or +639228125971 . 

This article was published on Appetite's February 2012 issue.
Grab a copy for more romantic escapades!

Tweet

Burgoo treat: Chicken Tender Fingers and Angel Hair Classico Pasta

Leo and I are two very different people.  But when it comes to food and talk, we mostly enjoy the same things.

Gaby vs. Leo

Burgoo will definitely be one of our choices when we want to be stuffed with tasty food.  You'll never go wrong with their humongous servings, which are almost always good for sharing.

Last Saturday, the hungry Leo treated me out to a Burgoo dinner. Yay.  It was the perfect ending to the busy week, since I also got a new book.

Waiting for your Burgoo order is never boring.  They place a set of crayons on each table, so you can draw on the huge paper sheets covering the tabletops. When you feel like your date is going to sound like a silent film...you know where to take him.  Leo and I don't have a problem with talking and drawing and laughing at the same time though.

My new book: Book 3 of Merlin.  And my drawing: Pseudo Merlin.

When our food came, we hungrily dived into them.  Leo ordered the large serving of Chicken Tender Fingers (P495) and the regular-sized Angel Hair Classico Pasta (P275).  I must say, they were a good combination.

Crunchy on the outside, tender on the inside

Barbecue Sauce, Honey Mustard, or Ranch?  Honey Mustard wins our vote.

I love the texture and simplicity of the Angel Hair Classico

What can I say but a big thank you to Leo? The next treat's on me.

Burgoo is located at the 2/L Gateway Mall Araneta Center, Cubao Q.C. For reservations, call   (2)-913-6121, (2)913-7234 or (2)912-7939.

Tweet

Classic Indulgence: Strawberry Ice Cream from Yellow Cab

If Audrey Hepburn donned pink....

...she would be strawberry ice cream from Yellow Cab -- simple yet satisfyingly sassy.

This classic frozen treat is lightly sweet and creamy; you'd want to take one strawberry spoonful after another.

Eat it alone or better yet, share it with someone special.

Like I did.

New Year date with mommy

1/2 pint ice cream comes in four flavors
photo from: Yellow Cab 

Strawberry Ice Cream (P105) bought at Yellow Cab Eastwood City Walk 1, Eastwood City Cyberpark, E. Rodriguez Jr. Ave., Bagumbayan, Libis, Quezon City. Call 02-4212222 or 02-4219421 for delivery. 

Tweet

Family Feast at Trio

Italian-style dining for friends and family

published in Appetite Magazine, August 2011 issue.

When I think Italy, I think food.  To go to Italy without getting a taste of Italian cuisine is tantamount to culinary blasphemy.  Italy’s food bible The Silver Spoon actually calls eating “a serious matter in Italy.”    Just like us Filipinos who can’t resist a family feast, Italians also thrive on good company, good wine and good food.

I didn’t have to go far to get a taste of Italy.  It took just one ride to the Fort to discover the spirit of a hearty Italian meal in the ristorante Trio.  Classy yet comfortable, Trio is what it markets itself to be – the perfect place for gatherings Italian (or you could say, Filipino) style.  In fact, the whole place which seats 140 can be reserved for parties or company functions.

Managing Director Ian Palabyab says that other restaurants claiming to be Italian would also be pricey.  Trio meals, to my delight, served huge portions at reasonable prices.  Aside from the single serving, the recently upgraded menu captures the essence of an authentic Italian meal – that is, family-sized helpings of yummy no-nonsense Italian food which could serve three or four people.

Given the eight-year track record of Trio, I was surprised to learn that the kitchen was under the direction of a young chef.  Don’t let his youth fool you though.  26-year old Corporate Chef Benny Liboro trained under the strict supervision of several chefs, aside from being schooled in an Australian culinary school.  His resume is a tour on world flavors as he has worked in Greek, French and Japanese restaurants.  This includes one of Perth’s famous eateries, Etro Bistro, where he was supervised by French Chef Patrick Panier. 

Talking to Chef Benny would already give you a foretaste to a Trio dish. Confident and vigorous in his speech, Chef Benny exemplified the robustness of a simple yet filling meal.  He tells us that Italian food is actually simple. Authentic Italian food uses light ingredients which can fill you up, without making you feel heavy.  Although I was excited to try the main courses, I couldn’t pass up on the Trio Salad (P275, P595) which was a generous serving of fresh mesclun greens topped with dried cranberries, candied walnuts, gorgonzola and raspberry vinaigrette.  

Chef Benny’s love for food began with his love for eating.  He remembers his dad feeding him Dominoes pizza when he was young. Now, his dad doesn’t need to deliver the pizzas to him anymore. Benny makes them!   I especially like the fire-baked Capriciossa thin crust pizza (P255) which had toppings of salami, smoked ham, mozzarella, basil, tomatoes, olives, mushrooms and eggs. 

Some of the dishes which are said to be single serving could arguably feed two people.  Take the Bistro Steak (P445, P995) for example. This juicy chunk of US Angus Beef is thick, tender, and served with a huge helping of garlicky home-made mashed potatoes and vegetables. 

Of course, we cannot talk about Italian food without thinking about pasta. If you want the perfect light pasta dish to complement the heavier meat dishes, I would also recommend the Vongole (P295,P695).  This is simple linguine drizzled with the white wine oil and topped with fresh clams, diced tomatoes and parsley.

My favorite dish would be the Al Forno Shrimps (P495, P895) which translates to four big mouth-watering shrimps covered with melted parmesan. Now this dish, you would want to finish on your own. The shrimps are oven-baked thermidor style and served with the staple side dishes of mashed potatoes and mixed vegetables.  The family-sized serving would include around 12-14 shrimps.

 I remember Ian saying that they don’t want people to come to Trio for the promos; they want people to come because of the dining experience.   Trio’s happy hour, every hour – buy 1 take 2 cocktails – may be added motivations to get your appetite for Italian food going. But the Al Forno shrimps and other surprises from Chef Benny are definitely the reasons for me to come back. Next time, they can expect the whole family to dine with me, Filipino style.

Trio is located at 2nd Level, Fort Pointe Bldg., Fort Bonifacio Global City Taguig, Metro Manila. For information and reservations phone (2)8841601.

You might still be able to grab back issues of Appetite August 2011 in selected newsstands 

Tweet

Healthy Options (and sinful choices) for hungry young writers - Pancake House, Megamall

Verdict:  Good for a casual lunch with friends or family.

Damage level:  around PHP 400-450 each, including dessert

They say that there's no such thing as a free lunch. But it looks like I'm being treated to quite a few lately. Last Tuesday was Pancake House free lunch day, and I decided to try their new healthy options.  I wasn't prepared to be taken to a lunch treat, so you'd have to forgive me for the yellowish cellphone photos.

My Healthy Option

Salmon Cakes with Brown Rice Tabbouleh and Dill Mayo (PHP185)

Tabbouleh is a traditional Arab salad made primarily with bulgur, a cereal food consisting of different wheat species. The Pancake House version was supposedly made with brown rice, but this doesn't look brown to me.  Even with the yellowish photo tinge, it clearly looks white, right?  I also couldn't get a taste of any spices. The tabbouleh reminded me of watery white rice with baby food consistency.

According to the menu, the salmon cakes were supposed to be crunchy. I couldn't feel the crunch, but I liked the tender texture of the salmon beneath the breading.  This viand is perfect for those on a low-salt diet.  For those looking for a tastier dish, skip this.

Ching's Healthy Option

Spicy Chicken Fillet with Brown Rice Pilaf, Garlic Cream Mayo and Lemon Wedge 175

Ching tried the chicken paillard (pounded or thinly sliced meat) with pilaf. The dish had strong hints of thyme and was lightly seasoned.   It wasn't salivatingly amazing, but it was a good choice for a healthy eat in Pancake House. I'd rather have this, or better yet, their cream dory, than the tabbouleh.

Sinful Endings

Of course, you can't end a healthy meal with something as tasteless as water.  We just had to have dessert.

Sunrise Orange Pancake Tower with cream cheese filling (PHP235)

Elea's perfectly manicured hand pours in the orange syrup

The cream cheese didn't exactly "fill" the pancakes, but this was a decent dessert.  Considering that we each ordered mango crepes, I can't complain about not being filled.

Mango Crepes for Three Hungry Young Writers 144 each

Mangoes were sweet and the crepe itself was thin and soft. Next time I order this, I'd have it with my staple ice cream AND whipped cream.  Whipped cream only does not satisfy my sweet tooth.

Any free lunch on a working day is a good lunch, wouldn't you agree? Thanks to our supervisor for the treat!

Ching with daddy D.

Pancake House, Megamall is located in SM Megamall Basement/Lvl. Bldg. B, Julia Vargas Ave., Mandaluyong City, Metro Manila. Phone 02-633-7843 for inquiries.

Tweet

A Fusion of Flavors at Lu

Published in Appetite Magazine, August 2011 issue


     Lu.  One simple syllable cannot capture the gastronomical feast that awaits the unsuspecting customer.   To the observant eye and discerning taste bud, Lu offers a luscious surprise.

A world of flavors

            Kristine del Gallego, Lu’s owner, is a lovely surprise herself.  Chic and attractive in a simple apple green dress, her quiet sophistication gives way to animated pleasure when she talks about her business.  The pretty meztiza says that Lu’s menu can be described as nice, simple, and healthy.  The words are true, but are an understatement to the culinary delights showcased in Lu’s menu.

       Contrary to the popular impression of being a Mediterranean and Moroccan restaurant, Lu prides itself on offering a mix of different flavors.  It’s comfort food and a world of flavors with a twist, Kristine emphasizes.  Then she instantly coins a new term and gives in a little, you can call it Mediterrasian.  Kristine says that she would like to avoid Lu being “boxed in” to a certain theme.    

An interactive dining experience

As if to prove her point,   Kristine asks us to try the Steamed Buns with Pork Belly Confit (P380).  The dish sounds like an elaborate way of describing your usual cuapao, but is actually one of the best examples of what Kristine would call a fusion.  Each palm-sized steamed bun opens to reveal tender slices of slightly salted pork belly, crunchy pieces of chicharon, juicy slices of soft peach and thin strips of fresh cucumber.   The coriander provided the twist, giving a slight flavor that explodes in the mouth. 

Kristine finds it enjoyable when customers deconstruct the appetizer, tasting the ingredients one by one before taking a complete bite.  I could understand their curiosity; pork and peaches are not your usual combination, but with this dish, the differing flavors and textures were a great mix.

            The steamed buns exemplify Lu’s aim – to make every meal an interactive dining experience.  Kristine explains that each bite is like a party in one’s mouth.  Lu is not the place to eat and run. The ambience here invites customers to linger and to talk, not just about any experience, but about the one most interesting thing at the moment – food!

It’s all in the lemon

            The twist in most of Lu’s dishes can be attributed to the ordinary lemon.  One would think that the lemon slices were just there to provide a dash of color; who would have thought that squeezing a small amount of citrus juice could immediately transform a dish?  One of our favorites was the Queso Fundido con Chorizo (P325) served with miniature pita bread.  Lu gets their cheese from the famous Malagos Farmhouse in Davao, so you can enjoy the fact that you're eating local, artisanal cheese. The torched gooey cheese has to be eaten hot, unless you wanted to spread waxy cheese on your pita.  We did not acknowledge the lemon’s presence, until Kristine told us to squeeze its juice on top of the cheese.  After doing this, I piled in all the cheese that my tiny pita could handle.  The tang of the lemon toned down the saltiness of the cheese.  Lu surprised us once again.

Other lemon-hinted recipes are the newest items on the menu. For starters, try the Cashew Crusted New Zealand Mussel and Prawns on Citrus Greens(P395).  The thin slices of fried wanton go very well with the juicy tenderness of fresh seafood and the zing of lemon and cilantro mixed with the greens.

 This lemon twist surprise was duplicated in the Turmeric Chicken with Pomelo-Cucumber Achara (P395). The chicken was grilled to perfection and served with sweet chilli sauce.  For another lemon-tinted dish, you could try Lu’s Gambas al Ajillo Angel Hair Pasta (P385).  The distinct smell and flavor of truffle oil blend well with this slightly spicy dish.  Or if you prefer something more luxurious to the taste, you could try my personal favorite – the Herb-crusted Lamb Spare Ribs with Bejewelled Couscous (P595).  This meal was the biggest surprise of all.  The lamb itself was subtly seasoned, while its crust was salty with herbs. The saltiness plus the lemon’s and couscous’ sour taste combined for an astonishing blend of flavors.

Happy endings

            I could say that we were served our just desserts by a talented crew of chefs.   I was undoubtedly full, but the head of the kitchen, 26-year old Enrique Moreno, was not done yet.  This young and innovative chef who assisted in the whole photo shoot still had time to whip up the impeccable end to a full-course meal.     Delightfully sweet, and slightly salty and bitter, the Cerveza Negra Butterscotch Red Pudding with Vanilla Ice Cream (P350) was the perfect finale to Lu’s menu of surprises.

            There are still a lot of dishes to sample in Lu’s menu, like the Minted Pea Soup with Sundried Tomato Pesto (P315).  The creamy subtleness of the soup went nicely with the toasted Jamon Serrano crisp, which tasted like salty bacon.  But I’m going to ramble on again. Go check out Lu yourself for more tasty surprises.

Lu is located at G/F Joya Bldg., Joya Drive, Rockwell, Makati City, Metro Manila
For information and reservations, phone 02-4033991

You might still be able to grab back issues of Appetite August 2011 in some stores.  

Tweet

Ye Dang Korean BBQ

First post belongs to Ye Dang.  We went here months ago, so forgive me if you notice some memory lapses. Why this for a first post?  So I could write a better review -- the best motivation to go back ASAP.


Summary:

Verdict:  Best Korean restaurant for a casual date or for eating out with friends and family.  
Damage level:  around P500 per person, more if you're feeling especially gluttonous.
Go here: 1) When you're hungry. 2) When you're more interested with tasty meat rather than Korean boys.

The Koreans have invaded.  And for once, I could say I'm pretty happy about it. I have to thank Leo for dragging us to Ye Dang for a late-night dinner.

I was pretty skeptical to eat Korean, since I'm a Japanese fangirl through and through.  But I admit, I was hooked by the time they served the complimentary starters and side dishes.

Unfortunately, these photos weren't meant to be blogged. But...you can't take away the yummy-ness of  Ye Dang even with crappy photos.  Kimchi, spicy fish cakes, marble potatoes (yup it's somewhere there) and lettuce on one side...

Sweet anchovies, dipping sauces and more greens on the other end.

Did I say that these side dishes are unlimited?  Simply order two meat viands, and you get to request for the  side dishes of your choice to your heart's content.  I personally liked the spicy fish cakes best.  In other reviews, you might also catch a glimpse of mung bean sprouts and minty Korean shiso or Perilla leaves (deulkkae or tŭlkkae).  I think they ran out by the time we got there though, so better come a bit earlier if you want a taste of everything.

You might be tempted to peek at Koreanovela boys in this jam-packed resto, but believe me -- the man-meat isn't as tasty as the red-meat.  We had Pork Belly/Samgyupsal (below) and a beef dish, both of which I couldn't find fault with.  Well, except that my initial impression was that there wasn't enough for three.  You have to understand me...it was late and  the onions and meat were making wonderful sizzling smells from the grill.

Meat is usually cooked on grills atop each table, but you can choose to have it cooked in the kitchen. This would take the fun out of the whole Ye Dang experience though. You might end up smelling a tad bit like BBQ, but it's worth it. If you're worried about the heat and smoke, each table has its own retractable exhaust pipe vent to take care of these.

All the meat was placed in this charcoal griller.

Strike a pose gals.  Aiah with her side dish, and Leo preparing hers the Ye Dang way.  There's only one way to eat here --   get a chopsticks-full of white rice, your favorite side dish, and a slice of juicy meat; wrap the whole shebang in leaves; plunge the mini-sub in sauce; and place the whole thing in your mouth.  I'm salivating just from the sheer memory of it!

We also had Bulgogi by the way, which is the best Bulgogi I've tasted so far... which explains why there are no pictures of that.

Stuffing ourselves silly with unlimited side dishes, two meat dishes, white rice, Bulgogi, cool pandan water, and more unlimited side dishes made us too full even for dessert.  We tried choosing some sweets in the Korean grocery near Ye Dang, but only Leo had the appetite to grab a box of ahem, Japanese Pocky.

I'm still partial to Japanese food, but Ye Dang...you just make my tummy crave for Korean.

Ye Dang is located at 88 Meralco Ave, Ortigas, Mandaluyong City. It's very near Metrowalk. Call 02-6361461 for reservations.

Tweet