Authentic Halal Food from Gilak by Hossein

Published in Appetite Magazine, March 2012 issue as One Magical Night: Authentic Halal Food from Gilak by Hossein

      Stepping into Hossein’s is like walking into an enchanting chapter from the One Thousand and One Nights.   With the heavy draperies hanging from elaborately carved wooden arches and colorful Moroccan chandeliers glowing from the ceilings, I almost expected a magical carpet to bring us in. What I got was even better – a night of exquisite Persian, Arabic and Indian cuisine under the commanding spell of Chef Hossein Sohrabi.

The genie in a chef’s hat

      Chef Hossein has the impressive presence of a supernatural genie that’s bound to grant wishes. I suspect though that anyone would find it extremely difficult to make Chef Hossein do anyone’s bidding, but food he will most willingly grant. The former bodybuilder and lifeguard was also in military service, as required for all 18 year-old male citizens in Iran. Who would have that a PhD graduate in Business Management would turn into a recognized chef?  Chef Hossein tells us that the love for food runs in the Hossein family. In fact, his brother is also a chef and exchanges recipes with him online. 

      With a vigorous “Come here!” the restaurateur made me run to the kitchen. He insisted that we wolf down whole chunks of juicy beef kebab (P334), instead of the hesitant bites we were taking from the freshly cooked meat.  Surprisingly, popping hot meaty portions into your mouth makes a whole world of difference in appreciating a kebab. He reminded me of my grandfather who wouldn’t take no for an answer whenever he had prepared some exotic food I just had to taste. When I told him my grandfather also went to the same school as he did in college, his eyes crinkled into a smile before he replied with, “God bless him!”

     The authoritative air is not the only reason you couldn’t refuse a dish served by Chef Hossein.  Once I took my first bite, I was enchanted.  He is hard to resist, because his dishes are just meant to be relished.  An example is one of Hossein’s beef specialties, the Beef Dopiaza (P424).  From the huge Chef’s Appetizer, my favorites were the motabal (eggplant with tahini paste and olive oil) and dolmeh (stuffed grape leaves).  The only thing in this entrée not for vegetarians was the meat samosa.  I’m a carnivore, but I would definitely want more of the homos, falafel, vegetable samosa, and tabulee included in this dish. When asked what the dolmeh was stuffed with, Chef Hossein simply says “It’s magic.”

Pages of food

     Chef Hossein tells us that he still studies every night.  “You want to see my books? Come!” I tore my eyes from the parade of dishes to be photographed and followed him to his office. He brings my attention to the many books on his shelf.  In a Persian Kingdom, Tempted, Cookbook Diary and A Taste of Persia…everything was about food.  Chef Hossein opens a page from one of them and tells me to read about Iran’s claim to culinary fame.

Spellbound by Saffron

      

      “If you eat too much, you might get high,” the Chef’s wife Gloria Sohrabi warns us about the very expensive and flavorful saffron spice natively grown in Iran.  “You put only a little”, Chef Hossein agrees.  Saffron is the female part (stigma) of the lilac-colored saffron flower.  This probably explains the heady allure of saffron, which as Gloria tells us, is also said to be an aphrodisiac.  The saffron is handpicked, taking 70,000 to 250,000 flowers to make one pound of the red seasoning.  Not only does saffron add flavor and color to a dish, its thin strands are also reputed to contain healing powers.

 

      I loved its distinct appetizing aroma in my Plain Rice with Saffron (P168).  Combined with the yellow Biryani rice (P180), the saffron taste was still perceptible from the chunks of shrimp tandoori, and beef, lamb and chicken kebab that Chef Hossein had cut up into a tasty mix of rice toppings.  You can get a whole plate of the grills and rice when you order the Supreme Kebab II (P2625), but make sure that you bring a lot of friends to dine with you.  Hossein’s grilled meats are served in huge portions and are very tasty.

Love spells Hossein

      

      Chef Hossein had plunked a whole stack of publications in front of me, ordering me to leaf through some featuring his restaurants.  A heavy coffee table book caught my eye though: Manila’s Best-Kept Restaurant Secrets.  “Find Hossein’s,” was the Chef’s instruction, and I couldn’t help but comply. There it was: Best Specialty Restaurant.

      While the Chef is certainly proud of his culinary heritage and thriving business, I feel that the love for his family surpasses all his other passions.  He proudly tells us of his four children, two of whom also cook.  In the photo shoot, the Chef dons his tall chef’s hat and holds Miss Gloria close and kisses her. “Right now,” he says over dinner, “I focus on my wife.”    

      This was truly one of my best nights over dinner with people I just met.  While he wouldn’t spill any of his kitchen secrets, Chef Hossein willingly talks about Iran, narrates their inspiring love story as husband and wife, and gives us advice.  “Enjoy your life when you are young darling!,” the Chef addresses each of us, “Don’t miss the time because you’re never born again.” Then with more emphasis, “Don’t say yes! Do it!”

     Chef Hossein has been here since 1978 and the first time he started grilling kebab, the other Iranians told him to go home.  Today, he has received invitations to put up the Hossein restaurants abroad, but he says he plans to stay here. As he declares, “This is my home”.

One more night of magic

     There are 580 dishes in Hossein’s; that’s more than a hundred nights you can experience a dose of Middle Eastern charm.   Chef Hossein tells me that I can come back any time to read his book about saffron. I will definitely return for another magical night.

      At the beginning of the interview, I was wondering if Chef Hossein still ate in his restaurants all the time.  In response, the Chef told me, “I love my food.” I’m sure many of his customers would reply with, "We do too!".

Gilak by Hossein is located at the 2^nd level, Greenbelt 3, Ayala Center, Makati Center, Makati Ave.  For reservations, phone (02)7290266 or 7290267.

Grab your copy of Appetite Magazine in selected newsstands!
Published by the One Mega Group.

Tweet

Provençal Cuisine at Café Provençal

If you need a casual-classy restaurant that's not cloistering, try  Café Provençal  at Shangri-la Plaza Mall.  It's warm ambiance, filling food, and attentive service are great for an intimate mall lunch or dinner with friends or business colleagues.  

Staying true to its name,  Café Provençal's food has the taste of Provence. This means, expect a lot of garlic, aromatic herbs, and olive oil in their dishes. Olive oil is such an essential element in Provençal cuisine that an important book on Provençal food, La véritable cuisine provencal et niçoise (The Wonderful Food of Florence) by Jean-Noël Escudier states that the king of Provence is actually the olive tree. 

My friends and I were hungry and didn't go wrong with these dishes:

For appetizers, we had the Picasso Painter Palette which would gladly feed 3-5 people.  We also ordered two pasta dishes, but the Porto Fino was the one that stuck to memory.  It seemed like such a simple dish, but it drew in mildly surprised comments of "masarap" (yum!).

Picasso Painter Palette
calamares, parma ham, feta-tomatoes, smoked sausages, Caesar sampler and garlic mushrooms

Porto Fino
black olives, sundried tomatoes, virgin olive oil, anchovies, and parmesan cheese over our choice of penne

Pasta is of course, best complemented by pizza.  Here's the self-titled Cafe Provencale pizza.

Cafe Provencale pizza
shrimps, pepperoni, ham, mushroom, capers, olives, anchovies, garlic, tomatoes, mozzarella cooked on Italian pizza stone

How do you make a good old brownie more interesting?  Top it with creamy vanilla, choco fudge, whipped cream, and while you're at it, add a butterfly to complete the mouthwatering picture.  Our dessert was so lovely, it drew in a chorus of wows.  

beautifully done brownie

the caramel butterfly looked too elegant to eat

You can bet that we soon got over this brownie's loveliness.

Chris takes the first huge bite

My equally lovely friends and I are satisfied.

friends since high school

men with babies are love!
Chris, daddy Sonny, and baby Claire

Café Provençal is located at 2nd Lvl. Shangri-la Plaza Mall, EDSA corner Shaw Blvd., Mandaluyong, Metro Manila.  It's open from 10 AM- 9 PM everyday.  For delivery (minimum of P500), catering, and reservations, call 02-6318046. 

Tweet

A Fusion of Flavors at Lu

Published in Appetite Magazine, August 2011 issue


     Lu.  One simple syllable cannot capture the gastronomical feast that awaits the unsuspecting customer.   To the observant eye and discerning taste bud, Lu offers a luscious surprise.

A world of flavors

            Kristine del Gallego, Lu’s owner, is a lovely surprise herself.  Chic and attractive in a simple apple green dress, her quiet sophistication gives way to animated pleasure when she talks about her business.  The pretty meztiza says that Lu’s menu can be described as nice, simple, and healthy.  The words are true, but are an understatement to the culinary delights showcased in Lu’s menu.

       Contrary to the popular impression of being a Mediterranean and Moroccan restaurant, Lu prides itself on offering a mix of different flavors.  It’s comfort food and a world of flavors with a twist, Kristine emphasizes.  Then she instantly coins a new term and gives in a little, you can call it Mediterrasian.  Kristine says that she would like to avoid Lu being “boxed in” to a certain theme.    

An interactive dining experience

As if to prove her point,   Kristine asks us to try the Steamed Buns with Pork Belly Confit (P380).  The dish sounds like an elaborate way of describing your usual cuapao, but is actually one of the best examples of what Kristine would call a fusion.  Each palm-sized steamed bun opens to reveal tender slices of slightly salted pork belly, crunchy pieces of chicharon, juicy slices of soft peach and thin strips of fresh cucumber.   The coriander provided the twist, giving a slight flavor that explodes in the mouth. 

Kristine finds it enjoyable when customers deconstruct the appetizer, tasting the ingredients one by one before taking a complete bite.  I could understand their curiosity; pork and peaches are not your usual combination, but with this dish, the differing flavors and textures were a great mix.

            The steamed buns exemplify Lu’s aim – to make every meal an interactive dining experience.  Kristine explains that each bite is like a party in one’s mouth.  Lu is not the place to eat and run. The ambience here invites customers to linger and to talk, not just about any experience, but about the one most interesting thing at the moment – food!

It’s all in the lemon

            The twist in most of Lu’s dishes can be attributed to the ordinary lemon.  One would think that the lemon slices were just there to provide a dash of color; who would have thought that squeezing a small amount of citrus juice could immediately transform a dish?  One of our favorites was the Queso Fundido con Chorizo (P325) served with miniature pita bread.  Lu gets their cheese from the famous Malagos Farmhouse in Davao, so you can enjoy the fact that you're eating local, artisanal cheese. The torched gooey cheese has to be eaten hot, unless you wanted to spread waxy cheese on your pita.  We did not acknowledge the lemon’s presence, until Kristine told us to squeeze its juice on top of the cheese.  After doing this, I piled in all the cheese that my tiny pita could handle.  The tang of the lemon toned down the saltiness of the cheese.  Lu surprised us once again.

Other lemon-hinted recipes are the newest items on the menu. For starters, try the Cashew Crusted New Zealand Mussel and Prawns on Citrus Greens(P395).  The thin slices of fried wanton go very well with the juicy tenderness of fresh seafood and the zing of lemon and cilantro mixed with the greens.

 This lemon twist surprise was duplicated in the Turmeric Chicken with Pomelo-Cucumber Achara (P395). The chicken was grilled to perfection and served with sweet chilli sauce.  For another lemon-tinted dish, you could try Lu’s Gambas al Ajillo Angel Hair Pasta (P385).  The distinct smell and flavor of truffle oil blend well with this slightly spicy dish.  Or if you prefer something more luxurious to the taste, you could try my personal favorite – the Herb-crusted Lamb Spare Ribs with Bejewelled Couscous (P595).  This meal was the biggest surprise of all.  The lamb itself was subtly seasoned, while its crust was salty with herbs. The saltiness plus the lemon’s and couscous’ sour taste combined for an astonishing blend of flavors.

Happy endings

            I could say that we were served our just desserts by a talented crew of chefs.   I was undoubtedly full, but the head of the kitchen, 26-year old Enrique Moreno, was not done yet.  This young and innovative chef who assisted in the whole photo shoot still had time to whip up the impeccable end to a full-course meal.     Delightfully sweet, and slightly salty and bitter, the Cerveza Negra Butterscotch Red Pudding with Vanilla Ice Cream (P350) was the perfect finale to Lu’s menu of surprises.

            There are still a lot of dishes to sample in Lu’s menu, like the Minted Pea Soup with Sundried Tomato Pesto (P315).  The creamy subtleness of the soup went nicely with the toasted Jamon Serrano crisp, which tasted like salty bacon.  But I’m going to ramble on again. Go check out Lu yourself for more tasty surprises.

Lu is located at G/F Joya Bldg., Joya Drive, Rockwell, Makati City, Metro Manila
For information and reservations, phone 02-4033991

You might still be able to grab back issues of Appetite August 2011 in some stores.  

Tweet